Normally, we’re not big fans of the term “supper.” It conjures up images of dueling banjos, plastic tablecloths, Vienna sausages and hillbillies desperate to make us squeal like pigs in the woods. Seriously, we have issues.
Somehow “dinner” sounds so much more, well, sophisticated. But thanks to the launch of evening service at stylish Southern charmer, Screen Door, we’re motivated to embrace our little-bit-country side. Dive face-first into any of the delicious dishes from the very traditional “THEN” side of the menu to the updated “NOW” column, filled with inspired selections, each winking mischievously at their home-style origins.
Start out the night with a Blackberry Mojito or Watermelon Cosmopolitan while you peruse the menu. You won’t regret either, or any seasonal variations for that matter.
For first courses, you can’t go wrong with the good ol’ Southern staple, fried green tomatoes, elevated here with the addition of smoky mozzarella cheese and red pepper jam. The cheese could be cut just a tiny bit thinner to keep a more delicate balance with the crispy, tart goodness of the tomato slices, but the flavors are still spot on and just different enough to really stand out.
If you’re a seafood lover, then think beyond the Long John’s drive-thru and wrap your lips around the BLT appetizer, which is a succulent bacon, lobster and heirloom tomato salad.
A main course of Bronzed Filet Mignon and tiny fried oysters atop spicy greens is melt-in-your-mouth perfection. Ditto the Iron Seared Chilean Seabass over risotto jambalaya with shrimp and Andouille sausage.
But who really cares about these savory sensations when you have some of the most killer desserts in town? The Screen Door twist on Moon Pie is haute cuisine with a wicked sense of humor, from the homemade marshmallow between two flourless chocolate cakes to the frosty shot glass filled with RC Cola. The portion is huge, so think about sharing. But then you’d miss out on our hands-down favorite: a banana-strawberry parfait. It’s like banana pudding on crack.
The service is attentive and unobtrusive, unlike the large chairs that make it difficult to pass between tables. But we’re sure the decor logistics will quickly work themselves out to make for a completely flawless experience. Best of all, Screen Door is poised to bring a steady crowd to One Arts Plaza and help invigorate nightlife in the area.
And with food this tasty, we’re ready to rethink the word supper. Because we’ve judged it way too harshly.
One Arts Plaza
1722 Routh Street, Downtown Dallas