Dallas 08.08.2008

Charmed, We’re Sure

One of our favorite southern hot spots dishes up August’s Brunch of the Month

As much as we love a good, cheap brunch with never-ending mimosas, Bloody Marys and eggs under a sneeze guard, sometimes you’ve gotta step it up a notch and truly indulge yourself. A leisurely three-course brunch at Screen Door is not the cheapest game in town, but if you want quality and originality, this place is dressed to impress.

Screen Door, like a few other Dallas restaurants, has opted for more “unch” in its brunch menu with plenty of seafoody items, meaty meats and savory creations.

For starters, you can’t go wrong with the earthy goodness of the asparagus salad with wild mushrooms, roasted tomatoes and goat cheese topped with a delicate but rich truffle vinaigrette. Ditto the jumbo prawns swimming in Bloody Mary cocktail sauce.

And you know what? Any eatery bold enough to put flapjacks on the menu as merely an appetizer is tops in our book. (The title? “Screw Jenny Craig.”)

But it’s the couple of plates that masterfully mix the first two meals of the day that make us want to live a week of Sundays pulled up to a table at Screen Door.

The classic combination in Big Mama’s Fried Chicken of a cracked pepper waffle with maple-brandy syrup alongside a crispy, succulent piece of perfectly breaded chicken is as good for the soul as it is bad for the waistline. The combination of salty-sweet is the stuff of which plate-licking dreams are made.

As for our all-time favorite, we’re here to use the power of the press to implore the owner, chef, hostess, servers, busboys, delivery folk and crack whore walking by at midnight: Please bring back our Screen Door Burger.

On our first brunch visits, this revolutionary plate of pure carnivorous decadence stood out as one of the most original menu items at any restaurant ever bestowed with our prestigious BOTM (Brunch of the Month) classification.

The inventive combination of Angus beef is emboldened with spicy chorizo, dressed with roasted Poblano aioli, fresh greens and then topped with a perfectly fried egg. OMFG. Love at first, second and third-it’s-gone bites.

Don’t fret if our oh-so-subtle begging doesn’t work, though. The sandwich is available on the lunch menu, but without the chance to precede it with a plate of pancakes, why bother, really.

So next time you want to make any ol’ Sunday a special occasion, just head over to Screen Door. If the service doesn’t charm the pants off you, your expanded belly most definitely will.

Three-course brunch: $32
Reservations Recommended
One Arts Plaza
1722 Routh Street, Dallas
(214) 720-9111
www.screendoordallas.com

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