Dallas 04.21.2009

Wizard of Faz

There’s no place for foam (when the flavors are this good)

In a foodie town like Dallas, it’s easy to get caught up in culinary trends that overshadow the actual meal. Some places opt for schmaltzy razzle-dazzle; like that Hibachi joint that turns sliced onions into “volcanoes” leading to many an unfortunate eyebrow loss. Or the over-achiever menus that read like the Oxford Dictionary boasting demi-glazed reductions of cryogenically frozen macrobiotic beets harvested by Peruvian monks.

And while it’s fun to enjoy a night of foo-foo fine dining, sometimes simple is better.

At first pass, Faz Cuisine seems like just another non-descript eatery to occupy the possibly jinxed location at Jefferson and Polk Streets in Oak Cliff (it’s been a revolving door of Mexican concepts for years). But owners Tomas Faz and wife Blanca, the resident pastry chef, have managed to capture the perfect mix of continental cuisines with neighborhood-restaurant friendliness.

The result is a place with a menu diverse enough to frequent without getting bored, yet still sophisticated enough to make for a great date night. (And for the record, adding your own Crème Fraîche to an order of Chili’s Baby Back Ribs doesn’t count as sophisticated.)

Forsaking the ubiquitous chips and salsa starter, Faz serves up fresh bread with rosemary- and garlic-infused olive oil to prime the palate. For entrees, opt for Stuffed Chicken Breast with Fontina cheese and red bell peppers atop sautéed zucchini or Angel Hair Pasta with prawns and mushrooms served with a roasted red bell pepper sauce. There’s also more traditional dishes liked Filet Mignon served with garlic mashed potatoes or a New Zealand Lamb chop. Specials change often, so make sure to check to see what’s not on the list before committing.

The dessert list has a little something for every taste including cheesecakes and brownies, but it was the Fresh Mixed Berries with basil and a drizzle of Amaretto that was alluring enough to make us forsake chocolate (perhaps an all-time first).

In an age of overcomplicated choices, there’s something to be said about coming back to basics. And as for foam atop food, we’ll skip it for use elsewhere. That bikini line isn’t going to shave itself!

Faz Cuisine
1001 W. Jefferson Boulevard, Dallas
(214) 944-1410
No Web site
Check it out at yelp.com

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